Nicola Gatta is one of the most sought-after names in Italian sparkling wine. Working around five and a half hectares of old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines on the limestone-rich hills of Gussago, near Brescia in Lombardy, at roughly 400 metres altitude, he farms along biodynamic lines and deliberately works outside the Franciacorta DOCG to make traditional-method wines on his own terms. Lovers of grower Champagne will recognise the approach immediately.
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The Cuvée Nature (formerly released as 'Ombra') is the entry point to his range. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, it is fermented spontaneously with wild yeasts, made with no added sulphites, and rests for 30 'lune' – Gatta measures lees ageing in lunar cycles, so around two and a half years – before being disgorged by hand with zero dosage.
Straw-yellow with a fine, persistent mousse, it is taut, precise and classically structured, with citrus, orchard fruit and a chalky, saline line through a bone-dry finish. A superb aperitif, and excellent with oysters, fresh seafood or roast white meats. Serve at 8–10°C.